Crocheted Hearts - FREE pattern

Crocheted Hearts - (make 2 then join together)

Materials:

- Double Knitting yarn
- 3.5mm hook
- stuffing

Special Stitches:
- 5trTogether worked over 5 separate stitches = *(yarn over hook, insert hook into stitch and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through two loops), repeat from * 4 more times, then yarn over and draw through all six loops on the hook

Chain 14
Round 1: 1tr into 5th ch from hook (skipped chains count as 1ch and 1tr), 1tr into each of the next 3ch, 5tr into next ch, 1tr into each of the next 4ch, 7tr into last chain (rotating work as you go so that you are now ready to work into the opposite side of the foundation chain), 1tr into each of the next 2ch, 5trTogether (see Special Stitches) over the next 5 sts, 1tr into each of the next 2ch, 6tr into the first of the beginning 5ch (to complete the curve), join with a ss to top of first st

Round 2: Ch2 (counts as first tr), 1tr into each of the next 6tr, 5tr into the next tr (point made), 1tr into each of the next 7tr, 2tr into next st (5 times), 1tr into next tr, 5trTogether over the next 5sts, 1tr into next st, 2tr into next st (5 times), join with ss to top of first tr.
Fasten off with a long tail for sewing.

Once you have made two hearts, join them together using slip stitches through both parts of every stitch around (or sew them together), leaving a small gap for stuffing.
Sew in all ends, using the tail to sew up any gaps.

LACE EDGING (optional): Join contrast yarn to point, ch5, ss in same place, *ch5, skip 1st, ss in next st; rep from * around, ending with ch5, join with ss to base of beg-5ch. Fasten off and sew in ends.

For more patterns visit https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/nancysaid

Mystery Crochet-a-long Part 7 (last Part - Edging) - FREE pattern

Welcome to Part 7 of my Mystery Crochet-a-Long 2020! 

You can still find Part 1 here, Part 2 here, Part 3 here, Part 4 here, Part 5 here, and Part 6 (summary) here

Thank you so much for making it this far with me. You're awesome.

This is the last part where you will discover how we're going to edge your blanket.  It goes without saying that you have to finish making the whole blanket first before you can start this Part, so carry on until you've got to a length you like and sew in all your ends before you start.  You'll be glad you did!

I know, I did promise you an amazing, magical, cure-all Edging (within reason!), and the first set up round 1 is key to evening out all those bumps.  You'll change down to a size 4mm hook for the entire edging.  This is to give you a sharper point when you dig into the edges, and also to stop it going frilly later.  But be mindful that you don't work too tightly.  Try to keep an eye on things as you go.  Round 1 should be neither too loose or too tight (and you won't be able to fix it later).

Ready then?  Let's go!

You will need either:
-  Approx 1000g+ ( = Blanket) lots of different colours of double knitting yarn, the more varied in colour the better
- OR 200-300g ( = Scarf) double knitting yarn in lots of different colours if possible
- 4mm, 4.5mm and 5mm hooks (or scale up or down a hook size if you're either very tight or very loose

 PATTERN NOTES:
    1. Pattern is written in UK terms
    2. IMPORTANT: Change hook size as instructed to prevent distortion
    3. Change colour at the end of every row and turn every row.  Aim to avoid a set sequence and try not to repeat the same row in the same colour
    4.  To change colour: Cut previous colour and pull through to secure.  Join new colour up through the first stitch (or wherever indicated) and chain the number instructed for the next row
    5. Work the chains on this row fairly loosely as they can be hard to find on the next row
    6. Stitch Multiple = 6+5 (add 1 for turning ch)
    7. Keep track of your rows, mark them off as you go
    8. This round is essentially Row 9 worked all around the edges of your blanket, with an additional 3ch-loop at each corner.  Work this Round fairly loosely
    9. As a rule, place your dc where the 3ch would naturally lean to, without over-stretching
    10. Make only 1ch (instead of 2) before and after each corner

IMPORTANT TIPS:

1. Keep track of your rows as you go.  You'll be glad you did!
2. If your often find the first and last stitches hard to identify, place markers (or safety pins) in them as you go

SPECIAL STITCHES - For Video Tutorials check out my YouTube channel
    • 2trCl (2treble Cluster) = *yarn over hook, insert hook in indicated place and draw up a loop, yo and draw through two loops; rep from * once more, yo and draw through all three loops on the hook
    • 3trCl (3treble Cluster) = (yo, insert hook in indicated stitch/space and draw up a loop, yo and draw through two loops) 3 times, yo and draw through all four loops on the hook
    • ExtDc (extended double crochet) = insert hook into indicated stitch and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through one loop, yarn over and draw through both loops
    • Dtr (double treble) = yarn over twice, insert hook into indicated stitch and draw up a loop, *yarn over and draw through two loops; repeat from * twice more
    • V-st = (1tr, 1ch, 1tr) all into indicated st
    - Scallop = (1dc, 4ch, 1tr) all into same place


EDGING - Worked in rounds without turning as follows:

Round 1 (see Note 8): Change to 4mm hook and choose any yarn - preferably one of the larger balls
Top edge: Ch1, 1dc into very first dc, *ch3, skip 2sts, 1dc into next st; rep from * across to last 4sts, ending skip 2sts, 1dc into next st, (1dc, 3ch, 1dc) into last stitch (Corner made)

**Rotate work to crochet along the Side Edge in the same way as follows: *ch3, skip 2sts (or the equivalent of 2sts), 1dc into next place (see Note 9 and Photo for reference); rep from *, using spacing as per the top row as a guide to where to place your dc, working (1dc, 3ch, 1dc) at next corner.

Along the Bottom Edge, repeat from * working into the opposite side of the foundation chain, working (1dc, 3ch, 1dc) at next corner.

Up the Side Edge, repeat from ** as before, ending with ch3, (1dc, ch3) into same place as first st, join with a ss to first dc.  Change colour

Round 2: Draw new colour up through any corner space, ch3, (2trCl, 3ch, 3trCl) in same space (Corner made), ch1, 3trCl in next 3ch-sp, *ch2, 3trCl in next space; rep from * up to and including last space before the corner, then ch1, (3trCl, 3ch, 3trCl) in corner space, then ch1, 3trCl in next 3ch-sp, rep from * around all sides, working (ch1, 3trCl, 3ch, 3trCl, ch1 – see Note 10 and photo) at each corner space, ending with ch1, join with ss to top of first Cluster. Change colour

Otherwise Chain 2 for the rest of the edge

Edging Round 2 complete

Round 3: Join new colour into any corner space, ch1, (1dc, 3ch, 1dc) into same corner space, ch3, skip next Cluster (= 2nd Cluster of the Corner), 1dc into next ch1-space, *ch3, skip next Cluster, 1dc into next ch2-space; repeat from * around, being sure to work 1dc into the small ch1-space before and after each Corner (see Photo), and working (1dc, 3ch, 1dc) into each corner space, ending with ch3, join with ss to first dc, change colour

Round 4: As Round 2, change colour

Round 5: As Round 3, DO NOT change colour

Round 6: Ch4, 1tr into same place as last ss, (1dc, 4ch, 1tr) all into corner space (Scallop made - see Special Stitches and photo), Scallop into next dc (= 2nd dc of the corner), *skip next 2ch-space, Scallop into next dc; rep from * around to next corner.
At corner work (see Photo): Scallop into 1st dc of corner (1), Scallop into corner space itself (2), Scallop into 2nd dc of corner (3).
Repeat from * around, join with ss to base of beg-ch4, fasten off.

At the corners, work a full Scallop into all three places as indicated.  It might seem cramped at first, but it takes it to get round the edge

Finished sampler of the blanket complete with Edging

Sew in all ends. And...you're done!  Are you feeling fantastic?  Thrilled?  Exhausted?  Are you ready for a cosy night in watching some news (in moderation), followed by your favourite shows back-to-back on TV, with breaks only to fetch another treat from the kitchen?  And are those visits to the biscuit tin more frequent than the adverts on ITV?  (I thought so.)

I hope you enjoy making this border which might take a bit longer than you'd think, but is a nice way to end our journey together.  It's farewell for now, but you can follow what else is going on in my crochet world via Facebook and Instagram and also sign up to my newsletter if you'd like the very occasional bit of crochet gossip, patterns  and invitations to workshops delivered straight to your inbox.
And if you've found this pattern enjoyable to read, you could take a look at some of the other patterns I've published in my Etsy Shop.

Thank you so much for following on and for making this unique time very special indeed.  Stay safe and well, everyone.  And be sure to share pictures of your finished blankets and scarves with me.  I'm looking forward to seeing them!

Best wishes
Nina x

PS. I've just published a few extra FREE patterns here on the rest of my blog for crocheted hearts and rainbows, all very important for the morale of NHS staff and patients right now.  Thanks for all you're doing, even if that's just staying home for another while yet.  You're awesome xx

Crochet Rainbow Keyring - FREE pattern

Crochet Rainbow Keyring - easy crochet pattern (UK TERMS)

Materials
    • Small amounts of DK yarn in various rainbow colours – eg Blue, Green, Yellow, Orange, Red
    • 3.5mm hook

    • Key ring

Special Stitches (*UK crochet terms)
- dc (double crochet) = insert hook into indicated stitch and draw up a loop,  yarn over and draw through both loops

*NB the UK double crochet stitch is equivalent to the USA single crochet 

BEGIN
Using Blue, ch4, join with slip st to form a ring (or make a Magic Ring – video tutorial available here)
Round 1: Ch1, 12dc in the ring, join with slip st to first dc. Fasten off Blue [12dc]
TIP: To fasten off using the invisible join method, watch this video tutorial here

Round 2 (NB. On this round your work will go frilly, this is desired): Join Green to any dc, ch1, 2dc in same st, *3dc in next st, 2dc in next st; rep from * around, join with slip st to first dc. Fasten off Green [30dc]
TIP: To begin the round with a standing dc, watch this video tutorial here

Round 3: Join Yellow to any dc, ch1, 2dc in same st, 1dc in each of the next 2sts, *2dc in next st, 1dc in each of the next 2sts; rep from * around, join with slip st to first dc. Fasten off Yellow [40dc]

Round 4: Join Orange to any dc, ch1, 1dc in same place, 1dc in each st around, join with slip st to first dc. Fasten off Orange [40dc]

At this stage, knot your ends securely together and trim.  They can be stuffed into the pocket of the rainbow before closing

Round 5 (Closing Round): Fold work in half to form a semicircle, tucking the ends in.  Starting at far edge and working through both thicknesses to secure, join Red to outermost st, ch1, 2dc in same place, 1dc in each st across, ending with 2dc in last st. DO NOT fasten off

LOOP: Ch8, slip st to same last st on the rainbow.  Cut yarn and sew in ends.
Feed this loop through your key ring.

Fun right?! I love a little make like this in between bigger projects. It's nice to use up little bits of yarn too.

If you’ve enjoyed this pattern browse more easy-to-read crochet patterns at Nancy Said https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/nancysaid 

 

Sweet Sixteen Sample Square - FREE pattern

Crochet a simple square with a circular centre - pattern based on Rows 1-5 of the Sweet Sixteen Throw crochet pattern from April 2020

You will need:

- scraps of double knitting yarn in 4x colours
- 4mm hook

One full square from the main pattern of the Sweet Sixteen Throw

Special Stitches

- dc (double crochet) = insert hook into indicated stitch and draw up a loop,  yarn over and draw through both loops
- Tr (treble crochet) = yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook, yarn over and draw through last two loops
- Htr (half treble)  = yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through all three loops on the hook
- Small Puff = (yrh, insert hook in indicated place and draw up a loop to the height of a half treble) twice, then yarn over and draw through all 5 loops on hook

- TrCorner (Treble Corner) = (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) all in same place

NOTES to this Pattern

1. Pattern is written in UK terms
2. Ch3 at beginning of each round counts as first treble
3. Ch1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch throughout
4. Consider the middle dc of 3 to be the new corner

TIPS

Tip 1) work over the tail as you go for a tidy centre

Tip 2) a good practice is to "count before you cut"

Tip 3) Pull the corner stitches back to find the first next stitch after a corner (which is often concealed by the corner stitches)

BEGIN 

Using any random colour and 4mm hook, ch4, join with ss to form a ring

Round 1: Ch3 (see Note 2), 11 tr into ring (see Tip 1), join with ss to top of beg-ch3. Fasten off.  

[12 trebles made] (See TIP 2)

Round 2: Join any new random colour to any space between trebles, ch1 (see Note 3), 2dc in same place, *2dc between next two trebles; rep from * around, join with ss to 1st dc. Fasten off.  

[12 pairs of dc made]

Round 3: Join in any new random colour between any pair of dc, ch2, 1htr in same place (counts as first Puff made), *ch2, skip next 2dc, Small Puff (see Special Stitches) between next 2dc; rep from * around, ending ch2, join with ss to top of first Puff. Fasten off. 

[12 Puffs and 12 spaces made]

Round 4: Join any new random colour in any space between Puffs, ch3, (2tr, 2ch, 3tr) all in same place (first TrCorner made – see Special Stitches), *(3htr into the next 2ch-space) twice, TrCorner in next space; rep from * around, join with a ss to the top of beg-ch3 

[4 Corners made with two blocks between] Fasten off.

Round 5: Rejoin same colour as used in Round 1 in any corner space, ch1, 3dc in same place, work 1dc in each stitch around, working 3dc in each corner, join with ss to first dc. Fasten off 

[12dc on each side, 3dc at each corner] (See Tip 3 to avoid losing stitches)

And there you have it, a very pretty square made.  You can make more of these and join them together (either sew or crochet them together) to make so may beautiful projects, such as tops, bags, cushions, blankets, cardigans - you make it, the humble square is on of the most versatile crochet items you could ever make.

For tips on how to further improve your crochet, check out these videos on YouTube where I show you:

- How to make an invisible join https://youtu.be/9pOPoXuU3oM

- How to make a standing dc https://youtu.be/XJ25GvLvizw

Sweet Sixteen Throw crochet pattern Rounds 1- 9

And if you've enjoyed making these rounds, go ahead and try the rest of the Sweet Sixteen Throw Pattern here to make a bigger square with further easy rounds like these.  It's a great way to use up your stash.  And you'll know that whatever you decide to make with your squares, it will be unique and beautiful.  Happy crocheting!

Sweet Sixteen Throw - crochet pattern

Pssst! Use code SPRING2020 to get discount at the checkout

Thanks for checking in.  See you soon!

More patterns in my Etsy Shop https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/nancysaid

Mystery Crochet-a-Long Part 6 - handy summary so far - FREE pattern

Welcome to Part 6 of my Mystery Crochet-a-Long 2020!
Happy days, you've made it to a milestone!

Here's a summary of the main pattern in full rows 1-33 for your convenience:

You can find Part 1 here, Part 2 here, Part 3 here and Part 4 here and Part 5 here

So far we've had Parts 1-5 with the instructions for the main pattern repeat Rows 2-33.  I hope that was enough - but not too much??  Hopefully you've had time to catch up and enjoy the new rows.  The good thing is you've got everything you need to carry on and make your blanket!

Keep going until you've got a decent sized blanket, let it be a cosy cover for you as you work.  Consider it a big hug from me. I'll be praying that you don't run out of yarn (if you do, make the scarf Parts 1-5)!

So here is the main pattern again in full, with all your Rows, Notes and Stitches all in one handy place.  Happy Crocheting.  See you soon for the Edging!

You will need either:
-  Approx 1000g+ ( = Blanket) lots of different colours of double knitting yarn, the more varied in colour the better
- OR 200-300g ( = Scarf) double knitting yarn in lots of different colours if possible
- 4mm, 4.5mm and 5mm hooks (or scale up or down a hook size if you're either very tight or very loose)


PATTERN NOTES:

1.  Pattern is written in UK terms
2.  IMPORTANT: Change hook size as instructed to prevent distortion - it matters
3. Change colour at the end of every row and turn every row.  Aim to avoid a set sequence and try not to repeat the same row in the same colour
4.  To change colour: Cut previous colour and pull through to secure.  Join new colour up through the first stitch (or wherever indicated) and chain the number instructed for the next row
5. Work the chains on this row fairly loosely as they can be hard to find on the next row.
6.  Stitch Multiple = 6+5 (add 1 for turning ch)
7. For Video Tutorials check out my YouTube channel

IMPORTANT TIPS:

1. Keep track of your rows as you go.  You'll be glad you did!
2. If your often find the first and last stitches hard to identify, place markers (or safety pins) in them as you go

SPECIAL STITCHES - For Video Tutorials check out my YouTube channel
    • 2trCl (2treble Cluster) = *yarn over hook, insert hook in indicated place and draw up a loop, yo and draw through two loops; rep from * once more, yo and draw through all three loops on the hook
    • 3trCl (3treble Cluster) = (yo, insert hook in indicated stitch/space and draw up a loop, yo and draw through two loops) 3 times, yo and draw through all four loops on the hook
    • ExtDc (extended double crochet) = insert hook into indicated stitch and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through one loop, yarn over and draw through both loops
    • Dtr (double treble) = yarn over twice, insert hook into indicated stitch and draw up a loop, *yarn over and draw through two loops; repeat from * twice more
    • V-st = (1tr, 1ch, 1tr) all into indicated st




MYSTERY CROCHET-A-LONG 2020  - main pattern in full rows 1-33

BEGIN – read all Notes before you start
Using 4.5mm hook and any colour of yarn, ch174  for a Blanket (or for a Scarf ch234) fairly loosely

(Foundation Row 1: 1dc into 2nd chain from the hook, 1dc into each chain across, change to next colour (see Note 4), turn [173dc (or 233dc)]

Row 2: Ch3 (counts as first stitch), *2trCl (see Special Stitches) into next st, 1tr into next st; rep from * across, change colour, turn

Row 3: Ch1 (does NOT count as a stitch), 1dc into very first st and into each st across [173dc (or 233dc)], change colour

Row 4 (see Notes 2 and 5): Change to 5mm hook - Ch1, 1dc into very first st, *ch1, skip 1dc, 1dc into next st; rep from * across, change colour on last st, turn

Row 5 (Tip: work fairly loosely): Ch2, skip very first dc, 1dc into next ch1-space, *ch1, skip next dc, 1dc into next ch1-space; rep from * across, ending 1dc into last space, ch1, 1dc into last dc, change colour, turn

Row 6: Ch2, skip very first dc, 1dc into next ch1-space, *ch1, skip next dc, 1dc into next ch1-space; rep from * across, ending with 1dc into last space (just past the last dc), change colour, turn

Row 7: Using 4.5mm hook - Ch2, skip very first dc, 1dc into next ch1-space, *ch1, skip next dc, 1dc into next ch1-space; rep from * across, ending ch1, 1dc into last space (just past the last dc), change colour, turn

Row 8: Ch1, 1dc in very first st, *1dc in next ch1-space, 1dc in next st; rep from * across, ending with 1dc in last dc, turn (ignore the last space/turning chain), change colour [173dc (or 233dc)]

Row 9: Change to 4.5mm hook – Ch1, 1dc into very first dc, *ch3, skip 2dc, 1dc into next dc; rep from * across to last 4dc, ending with skip 2dc, 1dc into each of the last 2sts, change colour, turn

Row 10: Ch3 (does not count as a st here), 3tr into next 3ch-space, 3tr into each 3ch-space across, ending with 1tr into last dc, change colour, turn

Row 11: Join new colour in the first space (between first stitch and first group), ch1, 1dc into same space, *ch3, skip next 3tr, 1dc into the gap between groups; rep from * across, ending with 1dc between last group and turning chain, change colour, turn

Row 12: Join new yarn in very first dc, ch3, 3tr into next 3ch-space, 3tr into each 3ch-space across, ending with 1tr into last dc, change colour, turn

Row 13: Ch1, 1dc into very first tr, 1dc into each tr across, working last dc into top of turning chain [173dc (or 233dc)]

Row 14: Using 4.5mm hook - Ch1 (does not count as stitch), (1dc, 1tr) into very first st, skip next st, *(1dc, 1tr) into next st, skip next st; rep from * across, ending with 1dc into last st, change colour, turn

Row 15: Change to 4mm hook – Ch4 (counts as first dtr), 1dtr into next st (see Special Stitches), 1dtr into each st across, change colour, turn

Row 16: Ch1, 1dc into very first dtr, 1dc into each st across, ending with 1dc into top of turning chain

Row 17: Change to 4.5mm hook - Ch1 (does not count as a st), 1Extdc (see Special Stitches) into very first st, 1Extdc into each st across, change colour, turn

Row 18: Ch4 (counts as 1tr and 1ch), skip next st, 3tr-Cluster (see Special Stitches) into next st (=3rd st along), *ch1, skip next st, 3trCl in next st; rep from * across, ending with ch1, 1tr into last st, change colour, turn

Row 19: Ch1, 1dc into first tr, 1dc in next ch1-space, *skip next Cluster, 2dc in next ch1-space; rep from * across, ending 2dc in last space, 1dc into 3rd of beg-4ch, change colour, turn

Row 20: Ch1 (does not count as a stitch), 1dc into very first st and into each st across [173dc (or 233dc], change colour (NB there is no picture of Row 20 but please make it!)

Row 21: Using 4.5mm hook - Ch1 (does not count as a stitch), 1dc into very first st and into each st across, change colour [173dc (or 233dc)]

Row 22: Ch3 (counts as tr), skip next st, (1tr, 1ch, 1tr) into next dc (i.e. work into 3rd st along), *skip 2dc, V-stitch in the next dc; rep from * across, ending with skip 1dc, 1tr into last dc, change colour, turn

Row 23: Ch4 (counts as 1tr and 1ch), 3tr-Cluster into the space of the first V-st, *ch2, 3tr-Cl into space of next V-st; rep from * across, ending 3trCl in last V-st, ch1, 1tr into top of turning ch, change colour, turn

Row 24: Ch1, 1dc into top of first tr, 2dc into next ch1-space, *skip next Cluster, 3dc into next ch2-space; rep from * across, ending with 2dc into last ch1-space (ignore turning chain), change colour, turn [173dc (or 233dc)]

Row 25: Change to 4mm hook – Ch4 (counts as first dtr), 1dtr into next st (see Special Stitches), 1dtr into each st across, change colour, turn

Row 26: Ch1 (does not count as a stitch), (1dc, 1tr) into very first st, skip next st, *(1dc, 1tr) into next st, skip next st; rep from * across, ending with 1dc into top of turning ch, change colour, turn

Row 27: Change to 4.5mm hook – Ch3 (counts as first tr), 1tr into next st, 1tr into each st across, change colour, turn

Row 28: Using 4.5mm hook - Ch1 (does not count as a stitch), 1dc into very first st and into each st across, working last dc into top of the turning chain, change colour

Row 29: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 1dc into very first st, *1tr into next st, 1dc in next st; rep from * across, change colour, turn

Row 30: Ch1 (does not count as a stitch), 1dc into very first st and into each st across, change colour

Row 31: Ch1 (does not count as a stitch), 1Extdc in very first st, 1Extdc in each st across, change colour, turn

Row 32: Ch3 (counts as first tr), 1tr into next st, 1tr into each st across, change colour, turn [173tr (or 233tr)]

Row 33: Ch1 (does not count as a stitch), (1dc, 1tr) into very first tr, skip next st, *(1dc, 1tr) into next st, skip next st; rep from * across, ending with 1dc into top of turning ch, change colour, turn

Repeat Rows 2-33 for a total of 5 full pattern repeats, then repeat Rows 2-14 once more. 
Sew in all ends, preferably as you go.

I'll be back for Part 7 with the final Edging on Monday 27 April.  However that is not a deadline, so please don't rush it.  Just take it at your own pace and enjoy this time.

Hugs to you all, and thank you so much for participating.  You rock!
Nx
www.nancysaid.com

Mystery Crochet-a-Long - Part 5 - FREE pattern

Welcome to Part 5 of my Mystery Crochet-a-Long 2020!
(*Please read all the way to the bottom)

How was Part 4?  Nice right, all those V-stitches and Clusters - makes you feel like a badass, right!??
Well, let's see what will happen next.

You can still find Part 1 here, Part 2 here, Part 3 here and Part 4 here

You will need either:
-  Approx 1000g+ ( = Blanket) lots of different colours of double knitting yarn, the more varied in colour the better
- OR 200-300g ( = Scarf) double knitting yarn in lots of different colours if possible
- 4mm, 4.5mm and 5mm hooks (or scale up or down a hook size if you're either very tight or very loose)

PATTERN NOTES:

1.  Pattern is written in UK terms
2.  IMPORTANT: Change hook size as instructed to prevent distortion - it matters
3.  Change colour at the end of every round.  Aim to avoid a set sequence and try not to repeat the same row in the same colour
4.  To change colour: Cut previous colour and pull through to secure.  Join new colour up through the first stitch and chain the number instructed for the next row
5. Work the chains on this row fairly loosely as they can be hard to find on the next row.
6.  Stitch Multiple = 6+5 (add 1 for turning ch)
7. - For Video Tutorials check out my YouTube channel

IMPORTANT TIPS:

1. Keep track of your rows as you go.  You'll be glad you did!
2. If your often find the first and last stitches hard to identify, place markers (or safety pins) in them as you go

SPECIAL STITCHES - For Video Tutorials check out my YouTube channel
    • 2trCl (2treble Cluster) = *yarn over hook, insert hook in indicated place and draw up a loop, yo and draw through two loops; rep from * once more, yo and draw through all three loops on the hook
    • 3trCl (3treble Cluster) = (yo, insert hook in indicated stitch/space and draw up a loop, yo and draw through two loops) 3 times, yo and draw through all four loops on the hook
    • ExtDc (extended double crochet) = insert hook into indicated stitch and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through one loop, yarn over and draw through both loops
    • Dtr (double treble) = yarn over twice, insert hook into indicated stitch and draw up a loop, *yarn over and draw through two loops; repeat from * twice more
    • V-st = (1tr, 1ch, 1tr) all into indicated st

BEGIN
Row 28: Using 4.5mm hook - Ch1 (does not count as a stitch), 1dc into very first st and into each st across, working last dc into top of the turning chain, change colour [173dc (or 233dc)]

Row 29: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 1dc into very first st, *1tr into next st, 1dc in next st; rep from * across, change colour, turn

Row 30: Ch1 (does not count as a stitch), 1dc into very first st and into each st across, change colour

Row 31: Ch1 (does not count as a stitch), 1Extdc in very first st, 1Extdc in each st across, change colour, turn

Row 32: Ch3 (counts as first tr), 1tr into next st, 1tr into each st across, change colour, turn [173tr (or 233tr)]

Row 33: Ch1 (does not count as a stitch), (1dc, 1tr) into very first tr, skip next st, *(1dc, 1tr) into next st, skip next st; rep from * across, ending with 1dc into top of turning ch, change colour, turn


Hopefully these are fairly simple rows to keep you moving on at a good and happy pace.  Thank you for all your efforts.  Keep the end result in mind as you go  - stay the course!

AND GUESS WHAT!!?? 

These rows 2-33 establish the pattern!

If you are working on a Scarf: Complete Part 5 and then Repeat Rows 2-14 once more, then work Row 3 to finish. Fasten off - you're done! Excellent work!  Wear with pride and joy.  Thank you so much for joining in and making this along with me.  I look forward to seeing you wearing it about town (at which point I'll want a High 5).

If you are working on a Blanket: Complete Part 5,  then Repeat Rows 2 – 33 until you have worked 5 full Pattern Repeats (IMPORTANT - see Note 3), then repeat Rows 2-14 once more. Shortly we'll be working on the border.  
(NB. See the full pattern Rows 1-33 in Part 6 which is also available now - click here.

Remember to keep sewing in your ends as you go, lest there be some unladylike swearing!
Good luck as you go.  Some of the rows will be easy to memorize so you won't have to keep looking at the pattern and can get stuck into whatever you're watching on TV.

When your blanket is a good size, we'll be putting an edging around so keep some yarn at the ready for that (not sure how much I used but it's usually more than you'd think).  The next and final Part 7 which includes the edging, will be released on Monday 27 April.  However that is not a deadline, so please don't rush it.  just take it at your own pace and enjoy this time.
Thank you so much for following along.  You're awesome!

Happy crocheting!
See you soon!
N x
www.nancysaid.com

Mystery Crochet-a-Long - Part 4 - FREE pattern

Welcome to Part 4 of my Mystery Crochet-a-Long!

I hope those rows in Part 3 were just challenging enough to keep you excited.  If you're finding things a little difficult, I say - that's great!  Hopefully you can learn a few new crochet tricks while we're all in this together.  Stay with it and keep trying, and if all else fails, squeeze in a stitch here or there to get yourself back to the right number of stitches.

You can find Part 1 here, Part 2 here, and Part 3 here

You will need either:
-  Approx 1000g+ ( = Blanket) lots of different colours of double knitting yarn, the more varied in colour the better
- OR 200-300g ( = Scarf) double knitting yarn in lots of different colours if possible
- 4mm, 4.5mm and 5mm hooks (or scale up or down a hook size if you're either very tight or very loose)

PATTERN NOTES:

1.  Pattern is written in UK terms
2.  IMPORTANT: Change hook size as instructed to prevent distortion - it matters
3.  Change colour at the end of every round.  Aim to avoid a set sequence and try not to repeat the same row in the same colour
4.  To change colour: Cut previous colour and pull through to secure.  Join new colour up through the first stitch and chain the number instructed for the next row
5. Work the chains on this row fairly loosely as they can be hard to find on the next row.
6.  Stitch Multiple = 6+5 (add 1 for turning ch)
7. For Video Tutorials check out my YouTube channel

IMPORTANT TIPS:

1. Keep track of your rows as you go.  You'll be glad you did!
2. If your often find the first and last stitches hard to identify, place markers (or safety pins) in them as you go

SPECIAL STITCHES - For Video Tutorials check out my YouTube channel
    • 2trCl (2treble Cluster) = *yarn over hook, insert hook in indicated place and draw up a loop, yo and draw through two loops; rep from * once more, yo and draw through all three loops on the hook
    • 3trCl (3treble Cluster) = (yo, insert hook in indicated stitch/space and draw up a loop, yo and draw through two loops) 3 times, yo and draw through all four loops on the hook
    • ExtDc (extended double crochet) = insert hook into indicated stitch and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through one loop, yarn over and draw through both loops
    • Dtr (double treble) = yarn over twice, insert hook into indicated stitch and draw up a loop, *yarn over and draw through two loops; repeat from * twice more
    • V-st = (1tr, 1ch, 1tr) all into indicated st

BEGIN

Row 21: Using 4.5mm hook - Ch1 (does not count as a stitch), 1dc into very first st and into each st across, change colour [173dc (or 233dc)]

Row 22: Ch3 (counts as tr), skip next st, (1tr, 1ch, 1tr) into next dc (= 3rd st along), *skip 2dc, V-stitch (see Special Stitches) in the next dc; rep from * across, ending skip 1dc, 1tr into last dc, change colour, turn

Row 23: Ch4 (counts as 1tr and 1ch), 3tr-Cluster into the space of the first V-st, *ch2, 3tr-Cl into space of next V-st; rep from * across, ending 3trCl in last V-st, ch1, 1tr into top of turning ch, change colour, turn

Row 24: Ch1, 1dc into top of first tr, 2dc into next ch1-space, *skip next Cluster, 3dc into next ch2-space; rep from * across, ending with 2dc into last ch1-space (ignore turning chain), change colour, turn [173dc (or 233dc)]

Row 25: Change to 4mm hook – Ch4 (counts as first dtr), 1dtr into next st (see Special Stitches), 1dtr into each st across, change colour, turn

Row 26: Change to 4.5mm hook – Ch1 (does not count as a stitch), (1dc, 1tr) into very first st, skip next st, *(1dc, 1tr) into next st, skip next st; rep from * across, ending with 1dc into top of turning ch, change colour, turn

Row 27: Ch3 (counts as first tr), 1tr into next st, 1tr into each st across, change colour, turn [173tr (or 233tr)]

So that was Part 4!  These are some of my favourite rows, especially working Clusters into the V-stitches - like planting flowers.  Thank you for joining in, commenting, watching, trying, maybe ripping? counting and trying again!  I hope you're still enjoying it.

I'm so excited to see what you all turn up when this is finished.  Don't worry if your scraps are dwindling.  Although, your husband might want to hang on to his sweaters in case they need to ...upcycled... lol

See you back here on Monday 6 April for Part 5!
Happy crocheting!
N x
www.nancysaid.com